Pat the steaks thoroughly dry with paper towels on a dedicated plate. Season both sides with the salt and black pepper. Wash your hands after handling the raw meat.

Warm a 12-inch heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Add the olive oil. When it shimmers, lay the steaks in carefully, leaving room between them. Cook in batches if needed.

Sear for about 3–4 minutes on the first side until browned, then turn and cook another 3 minutes. Reduce the heat if the pan smokes heavily or the surface darkens too quickly.

Lower the heat to medium-low. Add the butter, garlic and thyme. As the butter foams, spoon it over the steaks and turn as needed, cooking until an instant-read thermometer inserted from the side into the thickest center reads at least 145°F (63°C). Expect about 10–12 minutes total cooking, but use the temperature rather than time.

Move the steaks to a clean board and rest at least 3 minutes; about 5 minutes is convenient before slicing. Slice across the grain and divide among four servings. Spoon over a little pan butter and serve.