Mix flour, water, yeast and salt until no dry flour remains. Cover and rest 20 minutes. The dough should feel soft and tacky; do not add flour simply to make it dry.

With damp hands, lift one edge and fold it over the center. Rotate the bowl and repeat on all four sides. Cover. Repeat these folds after 30 minutes and again after another 30 minutes. Let the dough continue rising until visibly aerated and roughly doubled, approximately 2 hours total from mixing; room temperature affects timing.

Turn onto a lightly floured surface. Divide into three equal pieces, about 288 g each. Gently form short cylinders, cover and rest 15 minutes.

Flatten each piece gently into a small rectangle without pressing out every bubble. Fold the top long edge toward the center, then the bottom edge over it; seal the seam. Roll from the center outward into a loaf about 14 inches long. If the dough resists, cover and rest 5 minutes before continuing.

Place seam-side down on a parchment-lined half-sheet pan, leaving room between loaves. Cover loosely and let rise 35–50 minutes, until puffy and a light fingertip indentation returns slowly.

Meanwhile heat the oven to 450°F. Set an empty, sturdy metal roasting pan on a lower rack. Do not use glass for steam. When ready to bake, make three or four shallow, overlapping diagonal cuts along each loaf.

Place the bread on the middle rack. Wearing oven mitts and keeping your face and hands away from steam, carefully pour 1/2 cup hot water into the metal pan and close the door. Do not pour water onto the oven floor or door glass.

Bake 22–28 minutes, until deeply golden and firm. Rotate the bread pan if needed for even browning. Transfer loaves to a rack and cool uncovered at least 30 minutes before slicing.